Introduction

The Licancabur is the most beautiful volcano in the San Pedro de Atacama area. Not only does it govern the oasis with its perfect outline, it also catches the eye of every observer, surrounded by an halo of mistery. The Licancabur is definitely a very special volcano: our gaze stops instintively with detention over its slopes, hipnotized, erasing momentarily the memories of other volcanos.

Ancient legends of mythical weddings with Cerro Quimal (distant some 100 kms. to the west), of people living high up its slopes, of fabulous rituals made in its crater, are still heard among the descendents of the Atacama culture, the "atacameños." For them, the Licancabur was the most sacred mountain in the region. To it travelled pilgrims from remote places. These would stay in the village built at its feet, at 4600 meters above sea level. Inside its crater priests would light huge fires in order to establish mystical connection in specific dates with the rest of the high altitude sanctuaries of the area, specially with that on top of Cerro Quimal. Simply stated, the Licancabur was the great lord of the desert.

The Licancabur has one of the biggest and better studied archaelogical complexes of all the high altitude sanctuaries in Chile. According to Reinhard, its mystical importance was probably prior to Inca domination. Nevertheless, it was the Incas who built the summit platforms and structures, the marked trail up to its summit, and the several living quarters found on its slopes.

It isn´t absolutely clear as to what kind of rituals were performed on the volcano. Since it is a very dry volcano, it seems unlikely that the reason of the the ceremonies may have been related with fertility. More reasonable seems the theory of the Licancabur being a place of worship to the sun. However, it is possible that both suppositions might be correct, since the water found in the little pond at the bottom of the crater might have well motivated fertility rituals. Besides, solstice rituals that were celebrated when, for example, the shadow of the Licancabur covered cerro Quimal (a very unfrequent phenomenon), might also be related to fertility (cf. Le Paige.)

What is certainly more clear is the fact the Licancabur village was used exclusively to shelter the pilgrims who travelled to the volcano for special ceremonies. It wasn´t a place for permanente settlement, nor for other purposes beyond religious ones, since there is no water near it, nor have any tools been found among its ruins (though it is possible that these, if they existed, were stolen by huaqueros or tomb raiders.)

Toponomy

Licancabur is a kunza name, kunza being the language spoken by the people of Atacama. It means "People from Above", according to Le Paige. Today, kunza has been almost lost, very few people remaining who speak it.

Following, a list of archaelogical structures found on the Licancabur: