Introduction

In the southernmost area of this part of the Andean spine lies Huantsán which, despite being unknown to most mountaineers, is one of the most impressive peaks in the Cordillera Blanca. The size of its glaciers, its giant walls more than 1500m high and the few successful ascents earn it the name, “the K2 of the Cordillera Blanca.” On top of all this is the fact that Huantsán is the only peak in the area higher than 6000m, and it seems even bigger due to the enormous difference in height when compared to its closest neighbours; San Juan (5843m), Tumarinaraju (5670m), Shaqsha (5703m), Cashan (5716m) and Rurec (5696m).


In reality, Huantsán is a group of four mountains, three of which are higher than 6000m. Although it is often said that Huandoy Norte is the second highest mountain of the Cordillera Blanca in reality Huantsán is the same height (they both have approximately the same altitude), leaving both in fourth position behind the three summits above 6400m in the Huascarán massif. This makes Huantsán the sixth highest mountain in Peru. 
Among the historical anecdotes of Huantsán is the tragedy of 1945 when approximately 500 people in the village of Chavín died in an avalanche of snow and ice which fell from the east face before being channelled down the Huachesca gully. The village was flooded and until today the ruins of Chavín remain partially covered.

The legendary climber, Lionel Terray, who completed many great climbs in the Cordillera Blanca, chose Huantsán as one of his objectives in Peru, later adding it to his long list of first ascents in the area along with, among others, Taulliraju and the two Chacraraju.

The levels of difficulty of the routes to the summit range between difficult and extremely difficult. All of them require more time and effort than the majority of the mountains in the Cordillera Blanca. That said, the reward for one's efforts is as big as the mountain itself. Among the routes that lead to the summit are the following: 


Huantsán Norte (6113m)

The Northeast ridge.

First ascent by the French team of T. de Booy, G. Egeler and L. Terray, in 1952. The approach was by the remote Carhuascancha gully found on the eastern slopes of the range. In 1958 the Americans D. Michael, I Ortenburger, L. Ortenburger (the mountaineer with the largest number of first ascents in the Cordillera Blanca), E. Vargas and G Whitmore completed a variation of this route by the Shallap Gully.

The Southeast Ridge.

First ascent by the French team of R. Auda, P. Bonnier, J. Bouquier, L. Coursol, P. Ferry and G. Martin in 1978. The approach was made via the Rajucoltacocha lake and from there up via the Ahuac lake.

The West Face.

First Ascent by K. Klinger and W. Sachatonicek in 1960. Their approach was also via the Rajucoltacocha lake.


Huantsán (6395m)

The North-North East Ridge.

First ascent by the French team of T. de Booy, G. Egeler and L. Terray in 1952. After reaching the North Summit the team continued onto the main summit. In 1958 the North Americans L. Ortenburger (again) and E. Vargas reached the North Summit the same way as the French but then reached this summit by traversing round to the east.

The North East Ridge.

First ascent by M. Batard, J.M. Maire, G. Missilier, M. Parmertier, D. Neff, G. Siebel and M. Johns in 1974. This route begins from the head of the Huantsán gully over difficult mixed terrain.

The West face.

First ascent by B. Young, K. Messer y M. Lehner, en 1979. This route begins at the Ahuac lake from the base of West Huantsán.

Huantsán Oeste (6270m)

North Face.

First ascent by J. Tarver and K. Starr in July of 1984. The ascent was from lake Tambillo up to the wide corridor between the West and Main summit.

The East Face.

First ascent by D. Bianchi, E. Begin, J.P. Floras and E. Brochot in 1989. The approach was via the Ahuac lake.

The South East Slope.

First ascent by L. Alipi, C. Di Pietro, C. Ferrari, A. Calmarini, G.Gianantonio, D. Giobbi, L. Guidali, S. Liati and M. Mazzoleni in 1973. The approach was via the Ahuac lake.

Huantsán Sur (5913m)

The North Ridge.

First Ascent by C. Di Pietro, A. Galmarini and D. Giobbi, in 1973. The approach was via the Ahuac lake.

The West Slope.

First Ascent by K. Kobayashi, A. Miyashita, T. Hayashi, Y. Homatsu and M. Nishigori in 1967. The approach was via the Ahuac lake.

The East Slope, Southwest ridge.

First Ascent by Peruvian guides on a rescue in 1997.

References

Tomé, Juanjo (1999), "Escaladas en Los Andes: Guía de la Cordillera Blanca", ediciones Desnivel (pág.222)